Monday, February 29, 2016

Toddler Potty Training Pants Sewing Tutorial and Free Pattern in Three Sizes



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The Pattern

This pattern comes in three sizes. The small size fits approximately 18-24 months.

 The medium is approximately a 2T/3T. It is about 1 inch wider through the side panels and about ½” taller than the 18 month size.

 The large size is approximately 3T/4T. It is 1” wider through the side panels and 1” wider through the tummy panel (a total of 2” wider), 1” taller, and the soaker pad is wider and taller than the 18 month size. The width between the legs is the same on all sizes as well as the height of the waistbands and leg bands.

The sizes correspond to my children’s trainers and underwear that I have purchased from the store.
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Materials and Supplies Needed:
1.  Pattern pieces and card board to trace them onto. Cardboard is optional but makes them a lot easier to trace.

Download SMALL Pattern (18 months) HERE
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwagphfp7y0dSWxDQ1F1eTRqWG8/view?usp=sharing

Download MEDIUM Pattern HERE
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwagphfp7y0da2N4eXBzMlNNWVU/view?usp=sharing

Download LARGE Pattern HERE
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwagphfp7y0dYi0xaWMzd1VXMlE/view?usp=sharing

2.  Stetchy material for the outer layer. I used fleece but you could also use a knit fabric (old T-shirts would work good if you have some laying around). Fleece is water resistant so it helps hold the wet into the soaker. Fleece also works good if you do not have a serger as it doesn’t ravel or fray on the ends so you do not have to serge or zigzag finish the seams if you do not want to.

3.  Absorbent material for the inner soaker pad such as Zorb (which can be purchased from Wazoodle directly or now from Amazon), flannel, bamboo fleece, cotton/hemp blends, cotton bamboo blends, terry, etc. Upcycle fabric such as old sweatshirts, t-shirts, or flour sack towels, whatever you need to do (get creative!); if using old clothes make sure the fabric content is at least 80% cotton for the most absorbency. Depending on your material choice, you may need more than one layer - when using Zorb I only used one layer, but if using flannel you might need 4-5 (or more layers) depending on your absorbency needs.
 
4. PUL aka Polyurethane Laminated Fabric. This is optional but can be added if you want extra leak resistance. PUL can be found online (such as through Amazon, Wazoodle, or Diaper Sewing Supplies, or at your local Joann fabric store (it is usually in the diaper making section). Make sure to buy 1 mil thickness and not 2 mil. I used PUL in the example pair just to show you where to sew it into the trainer. However, I did not use it regularly since I choose fleece for my outer fabric as it is water resistant.

5.  Flannel for the inside of the soaker pad (which will be against the skin). Flannel feels wet when wet so the child knows when they had an accident. It can be purchased off Amazon or through your local fabric store.

6.  Thread

7.  Sewing machine with a straight stitch. A zigzag stitch is optional based on how/if you want to finish your seams.
  
8.  Serger/overlock machine. Optional, based on how/if you want to finish your seams. If you use fleece you do not need to serge the edges as fleece does not fray/unravel.
 
9. Scissors
 
10. Pins
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Making the Training Pants

1. Cut out the pattern pieces. There is a total of six pattern pieces per size – one middle panel piece, two side panel pieces, one absorbent layer piece, one waistband piece, and one leg band piece. If desired, trace pattern pieces onto cardboard for easier tracing and to make them last longer.


2.       Cut out fabric pieces. Make sure to follow the stretch lines on the pattern.

 
3.       If using PUL, pin the wrong side of the PUL to the absorbent layer(s) (zorb). Then pin the inside flannel layer to the absorbent layer. (The absorbent layer should be sandwiched between PUL and flannel).

If not using PUL, simply pin flannel layer onto the top of the absorbent layer.

I over did the pins, but I hate it when the slippery PUL moves when I am sewing :)
  

4.       Pin absorbent sandwich onto wrong side of fleece. Make sure to match up the short sides and the long sides. Center it the best you can.


5.       Zigzag around outer edge of the sandwich layer to attach it to the fleece.


6.       With the right sides of the fabric together, pin the long side of the side panels to the long side of the middle panel. Make sure to line up the long sides. Sew together. (I serged my seams, but you can also straight stitch using a ¼” seam allowance or zigzag stitch right on the very edge). The edges of my fabric didn’t line up exactly, opps, but not a big deal :) The picture below is what it will look like after both side panels are sewn on and opened up.


7.       With right sides together, match up the short side of the side panel with the short side of the middle panel. Pin. Sew together using either a straight stitch and a 1/4” seam allowance, a zigzag stitch right on the edge, or serge. Repeat with other side.

The pictures below are what your trainer will look like after the side panels are sewn on.



8.       Fold the leg bands in half with right sides together (see picture). Pin and sew along seam either with a serger, with a ¼” seam allowance or zig zag along edge.


9.       Open the leg band up and fold it in half the opposite way (lengthwise) with the wrong sides together (see picture). The raw edge of the seam sewn in step 8 should be on the inside. Pin.


 10. With the body of the trainers right side out; match up the seam of the leg band with the bottom seam of the middle panel/side panel on the back of the trainers. The raw edges should be together and the leg band should be around the outside of the trainer. Pin the leg band to the body all the way around, stretching the leg band as needed. It is easiest to pin along the middle panel first and then stretch the band along the side panel.



11. Using a straight stitch and a ¼” seam allowance, sew along the raw edge to attach the leg band to the body of the trainer. Make sure to stretch the leg band as needed. If you want to finish the seam either serge the raw edge or zig zag stitch along the raw edge.

12.   Repeat steps 9 through 11 with the other leg band.

13.   Using the example picture in step 8 (see below). Fold the waistband fabric piece in half with right sides together. Pin and sew. You will now have a waistband circle.


14.   Using the example picture in step 9 (see below), open up the waisteband and fold it in half the opposite way (lenthwise) with the wrong sides together. The raw edge of the seam sewn in step 13 should be on the inside. Pin.


15.With the body of the trainer right side out and the waistband around the outside of the trainer, center the seam of the waistband on the center of the back middle panel. The raw edges should be together. Pin the waistband to the outside of the trainer, stretching the waistband as needed. 
See picture under step 16.

16.   Sew the waistband to the body of the trainer using a straight stitch and a ¼” seam allowance. Remember to stretch the waistband as needed. If a finished seam is desired, serge or zig zag stitch the edges.


17.   Fold the waistband up. You are finished!


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